Wednesday, November 5, 2008

A Lovely Descend To The Venue of Gymkhana

This walk takes you to the only plateau of Shimla called Annandale Ground that was once used by British for Gymkhana, Polo, Dog shows and many other Public functions. The walk is through one of Shimla’s main suburb called Kyatoo - Now Kaithu. You walk through some of the old buildings, cedar trees and finally lose nearly 2000 feet.

Walk towards Kalibari Temple from the Anglican Church and descend towards Fingask Estate. An old house of  Fingask Estate is buried in the cluster of high rise buildings of hotels and houses. The Catholic Club building is slightly different from all others in Fingask as it is surrounded by a nice garden. Here a few Catholic families live and enjoy their close proximity to the Mall. Below them is Northbank, the house in which lived our well known writer Rudyard Kipling,

A steep descent from here takes you to Kaithu. This is an extended ridge to the North of Shimla, not very long and inhabited by locals. There are many old as well as new houses. Few well known are The Mythe, Firewood Cottage and Tara Hall. Tara Hall, later became the property of Loretto Convent and used as a school for girls and young boys. After a kilometer of walking you get the first glimpse of Annandale Ground.

Here giant cedars welcome you. Many of them are older then the town. The ground is used now as a nine hole Golf Course and a part of as a landing and parking area for the helicopter of the Chief Minister. It was extended by cutting into the hillside mainly through the efforts of Lord William Beresford, military secretary to Lord Dufferin (1884-88). This ground was the favorite place for the British to organize gymkhanas, fetes, dog shows and flower shows. A building here has been converted into Army Heritage Museum describing the history of Army. This is open for the general public on all the days except Monday.
Take the approach road and ascends towards the left. It starts with a small temple on the left dedicated to the local god and a typical example of Hill Architecture. After a kilometer’s ascent through the towering cedars you reach an old house called Glen Uquard now called Shimla British Resort. The house is set amidst the deodar forest and the rooms are decorated with the antique furniture. Have a cup of tea here and then you can approach the old horse carriage road bifurcation from where you follow a forest road towards the left. Here the jungle is full of hyenas, foxes, jackals, snakes and many Himalayan birds. The road is broad enough for a small vehicle but has developed ruts at places due to neglect. Weeds are growing in the middle of the road and at some places one has to jump over the boulders or fallen trees that block the way. It looks as you are somewhere in the remote belt as there is no habitation around. The road passes near the railway track and the last Tunnel Number 103, passes below it and the railway track enters the tunnel. You reach an open area in front of the huge Green Gates of ‘Indian Institute of Advance Studies’. From here you can walk back to The Mall via Cecil Hotel & Kennedy Chowk.

Total Distance Covered : 8 km
Time Taken : Full Day

Hike to the Highest Peak of Shimla


This walk takes you through some of the old houses including the first British house in this region. You climb up and enjoy the astounding view of Himalayas behind Elisiyum Hill – the second hill of Shimla with Seterling Castle on its top. A 1.5 km steep climb up takes you to the top of Shimla.

Ascend from the Christ Church to Jakhoo Hill, the highest point in Shimla. The ascent starts with a gradual climb and becomes steep slightly ahead of Ballyhack Estate. The view of Ridge from the rain shelter above Mahatma Gandhi’s Statue is stunning.                                                                                                          

One can see the throng that fills the vast ground of the Ridge with the turrets of Band Stand, Gaiety Theatre, Town Hall and GPO and the blue sky forming the backdrop. Visit the tempkle of Monkey God Hanuman, enjoy the more clear view of the Himalayas and ascend to the other side of the hill. A gentle descent through the Cedar forest brings you to the main road near the gates of Chalsee School. Chalsee is also known as Convent of Jesus & Mary.

Near the School a road turns right to Barnes Court now commonly known as Governor’s House. Next to that you may stop at Woodville Palace a Heritage Hotel for afternoon snacks. Woodville Palace is surrounded by lush green lawns from all sides and set amidst the towering cedar trees.

The oldest cemetery of the town opened in 1829 is located about one hundred meters from Woodville Palace near Oakover, the summer house of the Maharaja of Patiala. Next to that is Cedar Lodge, another splendid building of the town.



As you proceed towards the Mall, a small water fall attracts your attention. There is very little water in the source that keeps the area slightly wet. The water body is called ‘Churail Baoli’ It is said that a spirit of a lady who went to fill water fell down and died, haunts this place. A few paces ahead of ‘Churail Baoli’ The noise of school children attract your attention and you look towards a chalet type building called Chalet Day School. This is the only Chalet of Simla – the Swiss Bavarian style of architecture. Just opposite the school is a round shaped building once the Band Stand now used as a club, ‘Simla Club’ Next is Hotel Clarke’s, the hotel which became Mr. Oberoi’s first hotel. As you head towards the Mall the number of shops increases gradually. You cross a bridge called Combermere Bridge built in 1829 by Lord Combermere.

Captain Mundy the A. D. C. of Lord Combermere liked the delightful climate of Simla and made a prediction before leaving Simla that Town would achieve an importance every year and today the town holds a prominent position on World Tourism Map and this bridge was the first step towards the improvement of the town. You last spot here is the Ladies Park. It stands on the original site of Lowrie’s Hotel that got burnt down in 1930 and it was decided not to rebuild the structure. It is located just below the Anglican church from where you had started your walk.
                                              

Total Distance Covered : 7 km
Time Taken : Fullday

Monday, November 3, 2008

Walking through the Heritage Zone of Shimla

Shimla has been the Summer Capital Town of British from 1864 to 1947.When British arrived here first time in 1815 they found here a small vilage here with ten houses called Shyamla. British built this town brick by brick, house by house and added all other frills to make it a habitable worth for the coming generations. Within 190 years the town has grown upto the level when today it has tourists visiting it from all over the world. Today it is the capital town of Himachal Pradesh and a famous Holiday Destination for India as well as Foreign Tourists. Most of the British come due to the history of Shimla and to see those old housese built by their forefathers.

For Details on any of the following Walks contact me at +91 9816149102 or mail me at astoundinghimalayas@gmail.com

The following walk takes one through the Heritage Zone of Shimla during which you visit some of the Most Prominent Buildings of the town. They include Churches, Castles, Temples, Old Houses, Buildings and Lodges etc.

Walk through the Heritage Zone of Shimla : Start from the Anglican Church – Used to be the second Oldest in North India but became oldest after 1965 as the one built before this in Ambala was bomb shelled during the war with Pakistan. Next to that is the State Library – famous for its Moc Tudor architecture. Bandstand – now a restaurant stands little ahead with the Norman Gothic building of Gaiety Theater. Immediately next to that is Town Hall that houses the office of Municipal Corporation. The famous Scandal Point is associated with a fake story that the daughter of the Viceroy was abducted by an Indian Prince from Punjab, but actually this is the main square of Shimla where everybody comes, waits, meets and proceed to finish his another part of the day. There are banks, shops, travel agencies, General Post Office, ATMs, A Tourist Information Office, Railway Booking Counter, Bus Booking Counter and the office of Life Insurance India. But beware of touts approaching you and asking to hire taxies and Guides from them. Just avoid them as you must avoid the Cheeky Monkeys of Shimla otherwise they might put you in trouble.

From the eastern fork walk towards right and pass the GPO and head towards the Shimla’s Kirk – The Union Church now a College and a Library. Next is Constantia claiming to be the oldest house in Shimla and now houses YWCA. The Telegraph Office houses the first Electronic Telephone Exchange of India and a buzzer that make the entire town run every morning at 10 on the working days. Have a look at Bantony – an Old English House (has some nice woodwork but the tilted turrets and the coming out plaster reflects of the entire structure) before you descend to the Catholic Church near made in grey Sand Stone. It was built in 1885 and the original village of Simla stood below this. Nearby is Rosna Hall or Caston Hall with its present name as Deputy Commissioner’s Office with – A Norman Baronial Style. Come back after the visit to The Church and carry on towards Kali Bari Temple – the temple of Shayamla Devi from whom the town gets its name. But before that there is another old house called Grand hotel. Originally it was called Bentinks Castle. The temple ahead is dedicated to Goddess Kali – The Grand Black Lady. The building of State Bank of India next to that used to house once Imperial Bank. Originally called Delziel Estate also has some other old houses in its vicinity such as Delziel Hotel that housed Lady Irvin School and Simla Typewriting School who even now teach their students with manual typewriters.

Just opposite to it stands Railway Board Building – A massive structure and a marvel example of British architecture. The outer frame of the whole building is made of cast iron and steel pillars and rods that hold each other with Nuts & Bolts. Gorton Castle in its Neo Gothic architecture is the next building and the second biggest house of Shimla after Viceregal Lodge and houses the office of Accountant General. Further down is Council Chanbers – The present days Vidhan Sabha. It was used as Radio Station after independence for some years. Next to that is Kennedy House – the first permanent British house of Shimla but got burnt in 1976.

Here the Army mess is housed in Knockdrin – once the residence of the Foreign Secretary at a fork fom where towards right a narrow road leads to Annandale Ground. Past Knockdrin is the Command House, The Sanatorium and Cecil Hotel. Mr. M. s. Oberoi started his Hotel career at this hotel as a clerk in 1922 and became the father of the Hospitality Industry in India. A sharp climb little ahead of this takes you to the State Museum. The house in which Museum is housed is called Inverarm and so is the name of the Hill. A steep narrow descend from the Museum takes you to Peterhof – Once the residence of Viceroy of India before 1888. It housed the Punjab High Court after Independence and later used as the official residence of the Governor of the State. Now it is a hotel with State Tourism Department. Just below this is Armsdale that houses the official residence of the Chief Justice of the State, Radio Station, Khud Cottage and Willy’s Park.

Viceregal Lodge is situated on the next hill. Enter the Grand Gates called Gurkha Gate and a 300 meters gradual climb up takes you to the Shimla’s Biggest House. It is now called Institute of Advanced Study. There is a guided tour inside the Lodge that is included in the ticket that you have to buy near the Building. Return to Gurkha Gate after the tour inside and now walk towards the left of Inverarm Hill. This is a forested path and has three old houses, Yarrows – Once occupied by Muhammed Ali Jinnah, the Prophet of Pakistan and now houses the office of National Academy of Audits and Accounts, Ava Lodge – now a hostel but once the official residence of a Member of Viceroys Council, Willows, and Holocombe both with Army.

From here you reach back to Cecil Hotel and can return to the Mall by the same way.